Browsing through the isles at an upscale Italian grocer in midtown Toronto, I stumbled upon a powdered formula labeled “Sun Mylk.” Intrigued, I looked at the ingredients only to realize it was in fact a powdered version of our good old haldi doodh in fancy packaging. “Drink haldi doodh. Haldi is a natural antibiotic, it will make you feel better,” my khala would tell me, whenever I would get sick while in college in the US. Dorm room or hostel living is known to incapacitate one’s culinary ventures, but it still never stopped me from simmering milk with turmeric in a pan in the communal kitchen on my dorm’s floor. At that time, my American roommates would not understand why I was defaulting to drinking this smelly, earthy yellow concoction instead of going for the Nyquil.

A decade later, I found myself making an upgraded version of the same good old haldi doodh, after I gave birth to my first child. This time, I would drink this elixir as another kind of healing agent. By the time I was due to give birth to my second child, I proactively made haldi doodh in batches and froze it before my C-section, so I didn't have to stand in front of the stove for long immediately postpartum. By now you must have figured that I am the South Asian prototype cult follower of haldi.

As of late, there has been a global influx of turmeric based products. There are turmeric wellness shots, turmeric face masks and exfoliators at Sephora turmeric pills, viral turmeric latte videos on tiktok. How did a spice, used in home kitchens and ayurvedic medicine mostly in South Asia for centuries suddenly become a global super food?

“Haldi, like so many things from Asian countries, has gained more popularity along with the rise in social media, particularly Instagram and Facebook- short videos created to attract followers,” explains Nandita Godbole, cookbook author. Sadaf Hussain, MasterChef finalist and podcaster agrees, “It is more like turmeric is back as a superhero on a global stage.” Hussain explains that “curcumin”- the active ingredient in haldi is what gives it its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Almost all South Asian food uses haldi as a major ingredient. Hussain further elucidates that haldi is also a fat soluble agent and it dissolves in fat. When it binds to fat, our body absorbs it more slowly and more curcumin makes it into your bloodstream. The reason why turmeric is used to marinate raw fish is due to its antibacterial properties that helps in keeping germs and infections at bay. In Ayurvedic, traditional Chinese and Unani practices, haldi has been used extensively for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This bitter, earthy- flavored warm spice that has mustard and ginger like aroma and has been generationally passed down as a master healing agent is now being researched for its health benefits.

According to Harvard Health a 2020 study found curcuma to be associated with anti-inflammatory, anticancer, antidiabetic, antidiarrheal, antimicrobial, antiviral, and antioxidant properties. This means that our very own bright yellow, sometimes bitter tasting spice has gained global recognition for its healing properties that have been extensively scientifically researched upon and proven. “Scientific research has helped quantify, clarify and support holistic remedies previously considered vague or “quack medicine”. Having access to research without ever stepping into a library or opening a book also makes it incredibly easy to not only learn but also apply these findings more quickly in a commercial venture,” explains Godbole.

From The Telegraph labeling it “the new kale”, to the Daily Mail categorizing it as a “wonder drug” , google terming it a breakout star, after its searches grew 300% over the last five years in 2016, and ex- Victoria Secret supermodel and now a founder of an organic skincare brand raving about using turmeric in cooking and on her face- it is established that this golden spice is here to dominate. But how does haldi travel around the world? India is the largest consumer, producer, and exporter of turmeric. Other major turmeric-producing countries are Bangladesh, China, Myanmar, Nigeria, Pakistan, and more.

Diaspora & Co., a U.S. headquartered spice company ethically sources haldi and other Indian spices from India to America. Haldi was their first export. Founder Sana Kadri created a business to link Indian turmeric farmers with the consumers of golden mylk. “If white women are going to consume turmeric, how do I make sure brown farmers make as much money off of it as possible?” she said in an interview with Vice. As of 2022, the United States imported turmeric valued at approximately 49.8 million U.S. dollars, making it a leading importer of turmeric worldwide. Turmeric sales grew at a compound annual growth rate of 5.8% during the historical period from 2018 and 2022, as per Future Market Insights’ 2023 report. For the projection period (2023 to 2033), the global turmeric industry is forecast to expand at 5.5% CAGR, generating lucrative revenues by the end of 2033.

The statistics indicate that the demand for turmeric is only going to increase and this superfood trend may no longer remain a trend but slowly become a staple in Western pantries and supermarkets too. At the end of the day, the most important thing behind any lucrative spice trade is paying the farmers their dues, because it is them who turn the crooked rhizomes of turmeric into the magical golden powder that everyone is raving about. Sharing my cup of gold’s recipe here:

• 1 cup whole/ low fat milk
• 3-5 cardamom cracked pods
• Pinch of haldi
• Pinch of black pepper
• 3-4 crushed/flaked almonds
• 1 stick cinnamon
• Honey or gur (jaggery) to taste

Add all the ingredients (except for the sweetener) in a saucepan and let it cook for 7-10 minutes on low heat. Simmer, mix a sweetener of choice and enjoy!