Pakistan may not be Paris, but over the past few years, something interesting has been emerging. There has been a surprise growth of multiple local brands—from textile giants to standalone niche players—proving that the market is primed for olfactory experiences. There are many brands in the market now, such as J. Fragrances, Khaadi, Colish, Gaia, Arome, and Rawaha, which show that there is demand. However, most are content replicating Western hits with varying degrees of accuracy, which raises a crucial question: is any Pakistani brand willing to break free from the mould, and create something truly unique?

The answer, unfortunately, appears to be no—at least for now.

Step into any clothing brand’s store in Pakistan, and you’ll likely be greeted by an overwhelming array of sweet oud-heavy fragrances. For example, J. Fragrances, one of the most prominent players in the market, boasts a staggering lineup of scents that are either direct imitations of Western designer fragrances, or heavily inspired by them. A quick sniff of the brand’s Janan Platinum will immediately bring to mind Louis Vuitton’s Imagination, while Wasim Akram 502 unapologetically echoes Paco Rabanne’s Invictus. The same is true for other retail brands transitioning into ‘lifestyle’ categories like Outfitters, Lama, Sana Safinaz et al. who offer numerous clones of Creed’s Aventus Oud Ispahan and Gucci Bloom.

If you're looking to elevate your fragrance collection without overspending, Middle Eastern brands like Armaf, Lattafa and Paris Corner offer a range of affordable, high-quality scents inspired by popular Western perfumes, and they’re readily available in local markets. The only catch? Their distributors don’t invest much in marketing, leaving many consumers unaware of these hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

In a similar vein, local entrepreneurs have also stepped up to address the rising cost of designer fragrances by introducing their own 'inspired' scents. Brands like Arome and Rawaha offer these alternatives at a fraction of the price. Most of them source concentrated oils from the Middle East, Turkey, or China. These oils are then diluted with various solvents to create different fragrance strengths and compositions. While they may be the most affordable option, they often fall short in branding and packaging, making them less appealing for those seeking fancier presentations, or gifting options.

“Clones thrive because they offer affordable luxury,” notes Abdullah Tariq, founder of Colish, one of the rare Pakistani brands focused exclusively on creating perfumes and home fragrances. “But it hampers creativity. It's a hurdle for local perfumers who want to introduce original, homegrown scents. Consumers need to be educated on the craftsmanship and value behind unique creations.”

The dominance of these clones is hard to ignore. As Muhammad Ovais Saleem, owner of Indie fragrance house Gaia Parfums, explains: “Due to affordability and the ability to mimic luxury fragrances at a fraction of the price, clones flood the market. This makes it difficult for original creations to stand out.”

But why has Pakistan’s perfume industry become a veritable factory of knock-offs?

The reasons are multifaceted, but it seems much of it comes down to consumer demand. “Our customers want something that smells like a fragrance they recognize, but at a fraction of the price,” admits Ovais. “Regardless of high quality scents, people will still prefer a clone over a fragrance which is made in Pakistan.” This points to a deeper issue with the "Made in Pakistan" label—many still assume that anything made abroad is inherently superior, even when it’s not. That bias clouds the potential of locally produced goods, keeping them in the shadows.

It’s hard to argue with economics. Pakistan’s middle class, which forms the backbone of the perfume market, has shown a clear preference for Western-scented replicas over original creations. Affordability is crucial, and with Pakistan’s economy facing multiple challenges, consumers simply aren’t willing to pay high prices for original brand perfumes when they can buy a clone or “inspiration” at a fraction of the cost.

Pakistan’s reliance on imitation perfumes is especially frustrating given the country’s rich olfactory heritage.This region has a long history of using attar and fragrant floral waters, which have been cherished and passed down through generations. Their function has not simply been limited to personal use; fragrances are also a key part of our cuisine, and our festivities, rituals, religious practices, and family traditions. Many regions in the country produce fragrant woods, flowers and spices, yet these ingredients are conspicuously absent from most local perfumes.

“Pakistan is home to incredible raw materials like vetiver and rose, but the challenge is refinement,” says Abdullah Tariq of Colish. “High-quality extraction processes are costly, and that's why many perfumers lean towards internationally sourced ingredients that come with prestige.”

Global perfume houses like Amouage from Oman and Abdul Samad Al Qurashi from Saudi Arabia have built their legacies by embracing local traditions and ingredients. But creating original fragrances requires more than just blending oils and alcohol—it demands a complex supply chain, skilled labour, and a culture of innovation, all of which are sorely lacking in Pakistan.

In the world of luxury, fragrance is much more than just a smell—it is identity, memory, emotion. Global brands have capitalised on this, creating signature scents that evoke specific moods and moments. Tom Ford’s Oud Wood, for instance, transports the wearer to an exotic, smoky wonderland, while Le Labo’s Santal 33 has become synonymous with the urban New Yorker creative class.

So, what does Lahore smell like? What does Karachi smell like?

Currently, Karachi’s drawing rooms and cafes are saturated with Creed’s Aventus, and Lahore’s with Baccarat Rouge 540—the originals, the dupes, as well as the local clones. Aventus is a bold and assertive fragrance that packs a punch. With its pineapple top notes and woody oakmoss base, it's a scent that demands attention. Baccarat Rouge 540 is a sweet saffron bomb. Nowaday Louis Vuitton is fast becoming a fan favourite. A few years ago, it was Christian Dior’s Oud Isphahan.

The popularity of these loud fragrances in cities like Karachi and Lahore can be attributed, in part, to the cultural preference for attention-grabbing fragrances. In these cities, where appearances matter, particularly within a certain social class, wearing a fragrance that can be easily detected and appreciated is seen as a sign of confidence and affluence.

But are perfumers willing to take the risk?

For Pakistan’s fragrance industry to thrive, it needs bold innovators willing to take risks—investing in local ingredients, collaborating with artisans, and creating unapologetically Pakistani scents. Educating consumers on the value of originality is equally crucial, as current consumer preferences lean heavily on clones. But the winds may be shifting. “The future lies in originality,” believes Colish’s Abdullah Tariq. “We’re already seeing brands like ours expand globally, and that exposure can help reshape perceptions back home.”

Exposure and education are the lifeblood of any niche, especially in the fragrance world. Enter the Pakistan Fragrance Community (PFC) on Facebook, started by Abdullah Nasir and now boasting over 60,000 members. It’s a place where passion meets knowledge—members swap reviews, dissect scent profiles, and share their love for fragrance. But this is more than just a hobbyist forum; it’s shaping a more educated, vibrant market.

So, what’s the future of Pakistan’s fragrance market? If it continues down its current path of imitation, it risks becoming irrelevant in the global perfume conversation, a mere footnote in an industry dominated by countries that understand the value of originality. However, if a few brave brands are willing to lead the charge towards innovation, there is tremendous potential for growth.

“There’s strong demand for original fragrances, but there is limited exposure and availability,” Abdullah of PFC emphasises. “Social media has played a huge role in educating people about their options, and the market is definitely ready for more original scents.” With wildfire inflation, it’s interesting that more and more consumers are gravitating towards authenticity and a deeper connection. It’s the perfect moment for Pakistan’s perfume industry to shake off its copycat routine and carve out its own identity. Will it happen? Only time—and perhaps a few brave noses—will tell.