Every August, cities across Pakistan are covered in the green and white flags and jhandiyan to mark Independence Day. This August, instead of photographing the celebrations, I decided to trace the origins of the Independence Day paraphernalia in Lahore. My search led me to the heart of the trade: Urdu Bazaar. With my camera in hand and a sense of curiosity, I wandered through its narrow lanes, ready to capture the vibrant yet complex world where the symbols of freedom are bought and sold.

Everywhere I turned, the streets bloomed with green and white. Flags hung from shopfronts, wrapped around mannequins, printed on paper caps, strung up in tight lines that crisscrossed above the street. In Urdu Bazaar, patriotism comes packaged, priced and stacked in wholesale piles from hand-sized paper slips, to stalls of printed balloons. For vendors, the flag is livelihood; for customers, it is a badge of belonging.

Midway through my walk, I began asking vendors where I could find jhandiyan being cut. Almost every finger pointed me towards the same place: a narrow side street. There, in a modest, dimly lit room, was the market’s only flag-cutting centre. Its owner, Malik Khalid, a retired schoolteacher, greeted me with the kind of warmth that slowed my hurried pace. He offered me a seat, and proudly led me through his workshop, a tight space where stacks of printed sheets waited to be trimmed, sorted, and strung.

As he worked, Malik Khalid told me he is the only person in the entire market who does this job. His hands, once used to holding chalk, now guided blades and machines, turning raw paper into neat strips of fluttering green and white. In this tiny room, the grand narrative of independence was quietly pieced together, one flag at a time.

Back in the narrow streets, the tone shifted again. Amid the flags, jhandiyan and green-painted faces, another kind of Independence Day trade was booming, the sale of ‘باجے'. Stalls were stacked high with them, their colours just as bright as the flags but carrying none of their symbolism.

And then, just when the noise seemed to consume everything, a quieter scene appeared, a rose garland vendor walking through the same street, his flowers a soft contrast against the sea of polyester green and white. It was a fleeting moment, but a reminder that the spirit of celebration isn’t only in the mass-produced symbols; it’s also in the small, human gestures that carry their own quiet dignity.

My walk ended under a stretch of white cloth draped across the street, filtering the light into a pale, almost ethereal glow. In our flag, the white represents the country’s minorities, a promise of inclusion that too often exists more in symbolism than in practice. Standing there, beneath this fabric sky, I thought of how easily such ideals can be overshadowed, and how powerful they could be if truly upheld.

A man waves the Pakistani flag at Urdu Bazaar
A man waves the Pakistani flag at Urdu Bazaar
In Urdu Bazaar, the symbols of patriotism become commodities
In Urdu Bazaar, the symbols of patriotism become commodities
A vendor waits for wholesale buyers
A vendor waits for wholesale buyers
Malik Khalid outside the only jhandiyan cutting shop in Urdu Bazaar
Malik Khalid outside the only jhandiyan cutting shop in Urdu Bazaar
Preparing the Jhandiyan is a communal process
Preparing the Jhandiyan is a communal process
All ready to be bought in bulk
All ready to be bought in bulk
Independence, in various sizes
Independence, in various sizes
Bajays do a roaring trade
Bajays do a roaring trade
Symbols of celebration, even if often banned by neighbours and communities
Symbols of celebration, even if often banned by neighbours and communities
A wholesale buyer off with his wares, which will be set up in various parts of the city leading up to 14th August
A wholesale buyer off with his wares, which will be set up in various parts of the city leading up to 14th August
Flags are not the only form of celebration
Flags are not the only form of celebration
Sometimes, celebration is a fragrant garland
Sometimes, celebration is a fragrant garland
Customers trying out various celebratory paraphernalia
Customers trying out various celebratory paraphernalia
Children checking out Independence Day stalls in Model Town C Block, Lahore
Children checking out Independence Day stalls in Model Town C Block, Lahore
Almost all stalls, including this one in Model Town C Block, source their Independence Day wares from Urdu Bazaar
Almost all stalls, including this one in Model Town C Block, source their Independence Day wares from Urdu Bazaar

Umaima Tanweer Khan is a visual and digital media artist and photographer whose work is celebrated for its masterful play of natural light, ambiance and vintage backdrops. Her imagery marked by a refined use of colour, tone, shadow and light has earned her recognition at both national and international platforms. Over the years, Umaima’s work has been exhibited in prestigious venues including Space Gallery (New York), AURA International Photography & Painting Exhibition (India), and the THAAP International Exhibition of Photography (Lahore). She has been featured by Sony Middle East and Canon Asia, and has won multiple Gold Medals in the All Pakistan Photo Contest, alongside the title of Photographer of the Year by Dawn. Her photographs have appeared in international magazines such as Capturemania and Dejavu, and have been selected by National Geographic Your Shot. Beyond her artistic practice, Umaima has contributed her expertise to cultural heritage preservation. She worked with the Citizen Archive of Pakistan (CAP) and the Punjab Tourism for Economic Growth Project (PTEGP) in collaboration with the Punjab Government on the Digitisation of the Lahore Museum as both a Digital Medium Artist and Project Associate (Feb 2024 – Oct 2024). Her work on this project underscores her commitment to documenting and safeguarding Pakistan’s rich visual history.

woman avatar